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A natural pearl is formed in shellfish as a reaction to an irritant such as a piece of sand. To protect itself, the shellfish releases a substance called nacre, which forms a smooth, hard layer around the irritant, creating a pearl. Cultured pearls are created by purposefully inserting a piece of sand into an oyster or mussel. Because they are incredibly rare, natural pearls are the most expensive, followed by cultured pearls, which today make up over 90 per cent of the total number of pearls sold. Freshwater pearls are found in lakes and rivers and tend to be less perfectly shaped than their saltwater cousins. They are also less expensive, which make them a popular choice among young and trendy folk who don’t have the means to invest in saltwater pearls like Akoyas.
Freshwater pearls Overtone is a secondary color that is reflected in the pearl. For example, a white pearl may have a pink, yellow or silvery overtone while a black pearl may have a green overtone. The interaction of overtones with individual skin tones should be considered when choosing pearls. For example, a person with a fair complexion might prefer pearls with a rosy overtone while are darker-skinned person might look better in pearls with a silvery overtone. The grade of a pearl represents its quality. Grade A is medium quality, AA is high and AAA is top quality. Pearls are judged according to the following factors: Lustre: Lustre is the ability of the pearl to reflect light, or it’s mirror-like quality. Some of the most expensive pearls in the world are sought after because of their lustre. Shape: As a general rule, the rounder a pearl is, the higher its value. Pearls such as the freshwater baroque pearl, for example, which is known for its irregular shape, cannot be judged according to these criteria. Surface: Again, the cleaner the surface of the pearl, the higher its grade. The highest quality pearls have no spots, bumps or cracks on their surface and give off a sharp, mirror-like reflection. Size: Pearls are measured by their diameter in millimetres. Tiny seed pearls can be smaller than 1 mm, while South Sea pearls as large as 20 mm have been found. The price of a pearl generally increases with its size. Colour: Although pearls come in many different colors, white and pink are the most popular, with black not far behind.
Traditionally, each of the 6 standard pearl necklace lengths is associated with different styles and ages. Remember, however, that these are merely guidelines: your personal style (and your budget) should dictate which necklace length is perfect for you.
Collar - At 14 inches in length, the collar is the shortest of all pearl strands, and sits snug around the middle of the neck. Collar necklaces are often made up of three or more strands. Not quite as versatile as other lengths, the collar is very appropriate for evening wear, and will complement a range of necklines, from boat neck to off-the-shoulder.
Choker - At 16 inches, the choker sits in the hollow of the neck. Probably the most versatile length, chokers look good with almost any attire, from blue jeans to a little black dress. Since it is shorter than the other lengths, the choker is the most appropriate length for younger women and teens, and makes a beautiful “first” pearl necklace.
Princess - Slightly longer than the choker, at 18 inches, the Princess sits just below the collarbone. It looks great with v-necks or blouses for everyday, works perfectly with a business suit, and can also complement a deeper neckline. Many believe that the Princess is the classic length for a pearl strand, which makes it a popular choice for women of all ages.
Matinee - At 23 inches, the matinee is long enough make a statement at formal events but also looks great worn everyday over turtlenecks or high-neck dresses.
Opera - At 28 inches, the Opera is a long strand that falls below the bust. Dressier than shorter necklaces, it looks amazing with plunging necklines, but can also be worn over a chunky turtleneck sweater every day. Many women like to knot it just at the bust to create a vintage look while others double it up to create a double stranded choker.
Rope - At 36 inches or more, the Rope is the longest and most dramatic of pearl strands. Although you could wear it every day, this length looks best with evening attire. Try doubling it up to create a double (or even triple) strand, knotting it, or draping it down your back when wearing a backless gown. Some Rope length pearl necklaces are made with several clasps, so that it can be broken down into different necklace and bracelet combinations.
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